Ask the Innovators: How Green is Your Raincoat?

[buckrc0912]

Begin by asking your suppliers for the data on the chemistry being used.  There is a lot of published data of fluorinated chemistries.  From a practical perspective, the Outdoor Industry Association (OIA) has developed a list of questions a brand can ask suppliers, no chemistry knowledge required; and the Chemicals Management Module that lays out the knowledge and cooperative actions needed through the global supply chain (retailer-brand-supplier-chemical supplier) to better manage chemicals. Supply chain collaboration is flourishing between brands, suppliers and chemical suppliers to align on what to know and ask for via groups like the OIA, Zero-Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC), Sustainable Apparel Coalition and European Outdoor Group (EOG).

[Frazier_john]

What are the major barriers around broad(er) acceptance of non-F DWR with brands? And how can these be overcome?

[buckrc0912]

Emissions may occur along the entire life-cycle, principally to water, also to air.  At manufacturing, during consumer use (e.g., washing) and upon disposal (landfill, incineration).  What gets emitted and what it can turn in to is what the focus is on.

[#4]

• Highly fluorinated side chain polymers have unique oleophobic and hydrophobic properties, which provide extremely
  low surface tension and consequently oil repellent properties. This cannot be achieved with other groups of chemicals. If so called non fluorinated alternative polymers are used, they may achieve water repellent properties but not oil repellent properties due to their higher Surface energy.

• Some of the main alternative DWR chemistries are siloxane-based or hydrocarbon-based polymers. There are
  also hyperbranched hydrophobic polymers (dendritic, i.e., highly branched polymers) and specifically adjusted comb polymers as active components¹.Less common are fluorinated siloxane structures of which we know almost nothing. There is also research on plasma technology that may be an alternative to modify textiles surfaces to DWR properties[1].

Conclusively the only way forward from a scientific perspective to maintain oil repellent properties are to invent and apply new structures of fluoro chemistry, that can provide the same oil repellent performance as the current PFAS chemistry and that these new structures are scientifically shown less harmful to the environment and humans than the current PFAS chemistry. These efforts are still emerging and not in any way close to neither pilot nor full scale production as far as recent studies in these matters are concerned

So since these topics are very complex the most efficient and fruitful way to make progress is a close research cooperation between industry, academia and society. That's how we normally work in our research projects.

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[1] www.supfes.eu

[#5]

What are the most promising types of material that are water repellent yet biodegradable? Following on Anna's question, is there a biomimetic approach to considering materials that satisfy these two goals?

[#6]

Hi Monica!  Brands' viewpoints have absolutely changed over the past 7 years or so.  Non-Fluorinated DWR has been around for a long time, but it took global legislative changes (ie chemistries banned in countries) and the expose of long term health studies to "right the ship" of our industry and others.  Now, you see extreme focus on PFC's and their minimization/elimination, even outside of the PFOA/PFOS families.  In general, brands are taking a more prescribed approach to performance, chemistry, and the specifications they are willing to accept.

As far as essential use goes, the Government requires oil repellency for most of its military clothing in the form of resistance to weapons lube, jet fuel, DEET and other challenges.  Additionally, the Oil and Gas industry requires oil repellency in its applications.

[p_Hill-Leeds]

Good question as the industry and researchers are still striving to find non-fluorinated alternatives, Fluorinated chemistries have been traditionally used due to their un-rivalled functionality in repellency and durability. This is due to the chemical structure of fluorine and carbon. Non-fluorinated alternatives are being researched but have been shown to give good water repellency. Research and development is going on in both companies and academic labs. These are progressively working together.

[buckrc0912]

The challenge is aligning the interests of the supply chain players that are necessary to implement new technologies.  Communication is a big challenge across global supply chains.  Engaging with key decision makers at each step is really helpful.  Identifying them isn't.  Motivations vary and have to be understood and addressed

[#9]

Essential uses mean where the water repellent property is a core property of the article e.g for professional use where water protection is essential.

A non essential use is where the water repellent property is not in balance with the actual normal use of the article.

[buckrc0912]

The decision lies with the Brand who has to know and understand what the consumer wants and needs and how to translate that in to a product.